*Note that all times in parentheses here are pre-DST times. I didn’t set my clock until 13:00 this afternoon. Oops.
I didn’t sleep in near as long today as I did yesterday, only until about 09:00. The only reason I slept THAT long was because I forgot to set my clock last night before I went to bed. The alarm went off at (04:50) as usual – I guess I reset it yesterday by mistake – and Cullen called right on time. I rolled over and slept until (08:00) and got up, deciding that I was going to go ahead and make up some Thai chicken coconut so it would be nice and melded up by dinnertime tonight. So I got up, did some stretching to wake up my muscles and got a glass of water in my system before I started on everything.
The last time I made Thai chicken coconut, I didn’t have Kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass or chiles available, so I used the zest of normal limes, lemon juice and a teaspoon of Korean hot pepper paste. The soup turned out more than fine and it tasted almost just like I’d had in restaurants in Marietta. Almost. There was something missing, but I could never figure out what it was. After making another batch today, I will never be able to think it’s “right” without the addition of Kaffir lime leaves or real chiles in the broth. I tasted it hot off the burner and was ecstatic over the burst of lime in my mouth and nostrils, the feel of coconut milk coating my tongue and the sharp bite of the chile aftereffects. The first batch I made was passable, but this batch was nearly perfect (I still don’t have any lemongrass). The other thing that was missing was a good flaky flatbread, but that’s another story (soon to come).
I followed the recipe almost exactly as it’s read, barring a few changes (so not really as it’s read but it sounds good). I made the stock yesterday, so it had been settled a while. I put it back in the stockpot and brought it to a boil before adding the lime leaves (broken but not torn); the ginger pieces; crushed garlic; and one large green chile, cut into four pieces and all but the largest piece seeded. I don’t like REAL hot, but I like a little bite; and it would be acceptable for my roommate, who likes her eyes to water when she eats anything hot n’ spicy. While all that was simmering on the stove, I pan-fried up some chicken breasts in salt, pepper and extra virgin, until they started to brown where they just touched the skillet. I turned off the heat to the stockpot while I cut up the chicken, then added the chicken chunks with the sugar, coconut milk, nam pla; squeezed the two limes dry over the pot; and covered it up to let it simmer again. I walked off to clean something – cleaning and cooking complement each other well, in my head; the only thing better for my cleaning cycle than cooking is baking, which puts me in a whirlwind state of cleaning – and came back to find the pot nigh to boiling over. If I’d had it at a higher heat, it would have, but I took it off the heat and turned off the eye. I was afraid I’d ruined it, but I think the high boil actually helped. A lot of the coconut cream that had made itself into tiny flavor-filled clusters the last time had evened out with the boil. I tasted it with a spoon and almost did a little dance in the kitchen. I covered it back and let it sit.
Now that the soup was done, I had designs on making scallion pancakes to go with it, but I didn’t have any canola or peanut oil to fry in, and I didn’t much feel like frying at that time of morning anyhow. Figuring it would be better to fry them up to taste right before dinner, I decided I’d finish cutting out epi recipes I’d printed, and copying prints of other recipes that don’t come in a handy 3x5 format by themselves. But I wanted something a little special.
Sunday mornings have always been special in my family, in a quiet kind of way. Dad always goes and gets doughnuts fresh from the grocery, or we make Pillsbury cinnamon rolls (the original ones that you can bake just until just before they stop being squishy, not the new kind that have to be baked toasty), or French toast or SOMETHING ridiculously sweet to eat with our coffee while we watch whatever’s on the news or the Outdoor Channel while Grace (little sister, 3) plays with the dogs in the floor. And Mom and I always sit with the paper, watch Sunday Morning on CBS and drink her free-trade coffee and eat whatever she’s cooked for breakfast – fried challah with fresh preserves or homemade jam or whatever else her old-time hippie heart comes up with that day. (My parents are divorced and remarried to other folks, just to clear up any confusion.) So Sunday mornings have always held a special kind of something in my heart.
I wanted something special, but I wasn’t ambitious enough at (09:30) to cook anything serious like pancakes or French toast (though now that I think of it, French toast would be damn tasty). Vietnamese coffee popped into my head and suddenly that’s all I wanted. I call it Vietnamese coffee because that’s what Anthony Bourdain calls it in ‘A Cook’s Tour,’ which along with ‘Kitchen Confidential’ is one of my all-time favorite books. I can read it over and over and over again and never get tired of the descriptions or the food. In the chapter ‘The Burn’ of that book (page 59 if you’re looking with me), there’s a description of a vendor stand where Bourdain sits down, orders coffee and gets a glass of thick, rich coffee over ice and condensed milk.
“When the coffee has filtered through, it’s poured over the ice. Mingling with the milk below, it’s a slow, strangely mesmerizing process, delightful to watch and even better to drink. As the black coffee dribbles slowly through and around the ice cubes, swirling gently in dark-on-white wisps through the milk…”
-Anthony Bourdain, ‘A Cook’s Tour’
That little except gets me every time. I want to go to Vietnam, just for that glass of sweet iced coffee.
I don’t know what coffee they use in Vietnam, but I have Folgers medium roast; heavy cream and sugar instead of condensed milk. I have ice, thankfully. I made a half-pot of dark powerful coffee. I was tempted to run it back through the percolator again, double the flavor, but was afraid it would not only embitter my beloved drink but ruin my coffeemaker too. Instead I let it sit for a minute or two while I grabbed a heavy glass out of the cabinet, dropped some sugar in the bottom, topped that with ice cubes and poured heavy cream in the bottom, about a half-inch thick. The cream on ice is wonderful in itself to watch, but when I poured the coffee over the ice and watched it mix with the cream and the sugar, it was gorgeous. The glass filled up of the most wonderful café-au-lait-colored drink on earth (except for real Vietnamese coffee), and I sat back in a camp chair in the middle of the kitchen floor, with the dogs playing tag back and forth between the kitchen and living room, to enjoy it thoroughly. I got three big ol’ glasses of the stuff chugged down and damn, it was good.
By the time my roommate got home from the barn, I was getting ready to go to Cullen’s and wake him up. She reminded me that it was DST, so I had to double-time it to get there by 13:30. While I was there, we caught two lost dogs. One we returned to its babysitters, some kind of lab and coonhound cross. The other was a beautiful, if a little spooky, hunk of yellow Lab birddog with his owners’ Remington orange collar still on. I hope that whoever owns him comes and takes him home, but at the same time, I kind of hope they don’t so I can keep him… not that I need another dog. Anyway.
I came home after that around 17:00 and made up dough for the scallion pancakes after I fed the dogs. I’d forgotten how soothing kneading bread dough can be, how rewarding it is to see that promising ball of flour and water waiting patiently until it can be formed to its final product. I let it rest for a considerable amount of time, talking with my dad (he calls me every Sunday evening like clockwork and has since fourth grade when I moved out of Kentucky for the first time) and my roommate. I finally got down to making them up, but I didn’t fry the whole batch tonight. I only fried enough for a test run tonight and for tomorrow’s lunch, some with scallions and some without.
I liked both kinds, no question about that, but I am going to have to remember to make my next batch thinner than these. The chewiness is a great mouthfeel, but if they’re not at least warm, they’re not quite as good (or easy to tear). As for filling or taste, the sesame oil is a must-have, and the scallions give the pancakes a definite flavor. Without them, the pancakes are still good for a mouthfeel, and they still retain that clean oil taste, but are extremely bland. Either way, they cut the spice in my soup just enough. Everything was delicious, and I’m proud of myself for the new soups and the pancakes – probably the pancakes more than the soup. I’ll have to go to making breads like that more often, long wait or no.
I’m putting up the chicken coconut recipe, but the link to
helgarde ’s scallion pancakes is
here. I’d type it up, but why bother when she’s already saved me the trouble? In any case, thanks for sharing that with the Internet at large, Barbara – those pancakes were definitely the other missing link to my Thai food experience tonight.
Thai Chicken Coconut Soup1 qt (4 c) chicken stock1 stalk lemongrass (white only, cracked)3 Kaffir lime leaves, torn (or lime zest)1 3” piece fresh ginger, peeled & sliced2 small Thai chiles, halved1 13-oz. can coconut milk2 tbsp fish sauce1½ tsp sugarjuice of 2 limes1½ c cooked chickenchopped cilantro (opt.)chopped scallions (opt.)Boil stock and add lemongrass, lime leaves, ginger, chiles and garlic. Cover and let simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in milk, fish sauce, sugar, lime juice and chicken, cover again and let simmer for five minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste; top with cilantro or scallions if desired and serve hot. Serves 4.